Monday, 8 November 2010

Reduce your file size BEFORE you put them on the animation line

This is to reduce the file size for LOTS of files:

Open all the files through Photoshop

Go to Action (if the window is not open go to Window and open 'action')
Click on the box - 'create new action'
Go to Image - Image size - change resolution to 72
and then change the longest length (either width or length) to 1,100 pixels
STOP action - bottom left square

Go to
-File
-Automate
-Batch
-opened files (those you have already put on the Desktop)
-choose your action

Monday, 1 November 2010

evaluation

For your evaluation:

  • look at your final image in terms of technical skills (Photoshop) what would you say are the strengths and weaknesses?  What could you improve on?
  • look back at your plan and compare your finished picture with your plan?  Is it different?  If so, how? and why?  Explain your reasons for the differences.
  • look at the research you did of another photographers work.  How does your work compare?

Aim for about 10 points in total.

Sunday, 10 October 2010

Open in iMovie

Open in iMovie to put music on.  These instructions are for iMovie NOT the older (and better) version which is iMovieHD:

Go to:
  • File
  • Import
  • Movies - full - Original size - OK
  • find your folder (should be on desktop) and import
Drag to the timeline


To add music (from itunes)
Go to music note icon
  • choose
  • click drag to timeline
  • drop it on
  • to drag to fit - click on cursor on edge(s)
Once finished, go to:
- SHARE
Export Movie
Export as (name) to desktop
(export)

Animation window in Photoshop


First of all adjust your images in Photoshop so that they are ready to put onto a timeline.  

Open a new file size 720 x 576 dpi

Open your pictures (that you are going to use) and copy them into the file and save.  Do this repeatedly until all your pictures are saved in the new file size.  You want to end up with a minimum of 10 pictures.


Put them in a Folder with the title something like: ‘JULIAN Adjusted Moving stills’.  You can keep this folder on a memory stick.  When it comes to editing them on to a timeline drag the folder onto the desktop.

To edit:
-Open Photoshop
(if the icon is not on the bottom bar then go to – GO – Applications –find Adobe Photoshop CS5 and click on it)

Check that ‘Layers’ window is open.  If it isn’t then go to –
- Window and tick ‘Layers’.

Then Go To:
-file
-scripts
-load files into stack
-choose and open

Now your images are all stacked in a pile (like a pile of photographs stacked on top of each other) and you can see them in the ‘Layers’ window.

Now Go to:
Window
- tick ‘Animation’

On the timeline the first (top in the pile) photograph will appear.

Make a new frame on the time line.
To make the next frame go to the little boxes icon at the bottom of the timeline ‘Duplicates selected frame’.  This will repeat the same frame so go to the ‘Layers’ window and click on the eye icon to reveal the next in the stack.  Keep going until all the pictures you want are on the timeline.

Change timing
Change the timing of each image by clicking on the arrow at the bottom of the image in the timeline and choosing the amount of seconds you want.


When you have finished go to
- File
– Export
– Render Video
PAL DI/DV  720 x 576

name and put folder on desktop

Quicktime Movie

settings 24 (standard) frames per second
Compression type DV-PAL

16:9

render

Now it is on desktop and rendered

Now open iMovie

Saturday, 9 October 2010

resizing in layers

to Resize:

In your background photo go to:
Layer
New
Layer

Choose your selection tool, for example, 'Rectangular Marquee Tool' (doesn't really matter which as you will be getting rid of the edges - just don't use 'crop'!)

Go to:
- Edit
- Copy
- Edit
-Paste


Click on Move tool (top icon on tool bar) and move object into background picture (it will automatically open in the new layer)

To resize go to:
-Edit
-transform
-scale
-press shift down and go to the corner of the selected box

Now you can get rid of the part of the selected item that you don't want using layers mask reveal all and paint brush.

Sunday, 26 September 2010

IMAGE SIZE

Size

Can be a controversial issue amongst Photoshop users.  Basically you want to record your images in the camera at the finest and highest possible quality.  However, this creates a BIG file.  You save this as an original and then duplicate it to work on.  But when you are posting this to a BLOG things can get slow if you are dealing with huge files and in anycase the screen (of your computer monitor) is only about 750 x 1000 pixels.

So when posting to a Blog or screen, do the following, go to:

-Image
-Image size
-make sure all the boxes are ticked (scale styles, constrain proportions, resample image) and then
-the highest number (width or height) to1,000 and change
-Resolution (pixels/inch) to 72

Then save this image marked for screen, so go to:
-File
-save as
-add the word screen to the name so
'2440' becomes
'2440 screen'
(Then you know before you even open the file that it is already adjusted for the screen.)

After you have done this it is inadvisable to make further adjustments to the image because it is now poor quality.  You may need to go back to the original or duplicate if you want to change it.

SAVING FILES and duplicates

Saving files.
Save your files in your user area in Noah Scratch.
I advise you to also save your pictures on a memory stick (which you keep very safe!).

Save the originals.  You don't want to loose these and you always need your original copies so when you work on them I suggest you make a duplicate AND save the duplicate.

To open a picture (file) in Photoshop:
Open Photoshop
Go to:
- File
-Open
-choose file and open

To duplicate, go to:
-Image
-Duplicate
-give your file a new name - I usually take of the first letters and leave it with the number so I can tell instantly if it is the original or copy, for instance:
_MG_2440       I would change to:
2440

REMEMBER that now you have a new file open (the duplicate) but it is NOT saved.  Go to:
-file
-save as
- you could choose here to make a 'New Folder' of duplicates.

Have a look at these examples of digital Multiple Images - - -

Wendy McMurdo
Mostly work with children which seems to suggest internal relationships.
http://www.wendymcmurdo.com/

Paul M Smith
You might recognise a famous face here, again and again..... Ask yourself what Paul M Smith achieves by using the same person repeatedly.  What does it suggest about Robbie Williams personality?  What does it suggest about soldiers in war?
http://www.paulmsmith.co.uk/

Adam Green
This photographer uses multiple image to create an absence rather than to add a person.  What effect does this absence have?
http://www.adgreen.co.uk/


Shauni did a very good job of interpreting this brief.  Being interested in fashion photography she created a whole atmosphere of fantasy for her model.  Scroll down to multiple images on:
http://shauni-photography.blogspot.com/


The following is a link to an old blog of mine.  I was interested in the kids running around trying different things in the garden and hoping to create an impression of the frenetic activity.
http://ndphotokf.blogspot.com/search/label/Multiple%20Exposure%20work.

Sunday, 19 September 2010

Help with multiple images

Look at:
Wendy McMurdo
Paul M Smith
Adam Green

To bring your pictures together in Photoshop:

As usual - save originals and make duplicate files (so that you can work on duplicates without damaging originals).

  1. Decide which is going to be your background and which the overlay.  Remember the background is the starting point and other pictures go into it.
  2. Use the move tool (top right 'tool palette' icon). Click on to the overlay picture and drag it on top of your background picture. This now appears in the background layer palette as 'Layer 1'.  You can name this layer by clicking on the layer palette where it says 'layer 1'.
  3. If you want, you can see both pictures at once.  To do this, in the 'Layer Palette', change the 'Opacity' scale to a lower percentage (making sure that 'Layer 1' is selected). Now you will be able to see the background layer behind as well as the overlay.
  4. Creating a Layer Mask and using 'reveal all' (or 'hide all' - see 7.). This helps to improve your accuracy but remember whichever way you do this the job is fiddly! Select the top layer 'Layer 1' go to -
    layer - layer mask - reveal all.
  5. Reveal all shows all the overlay. You can alter the opacity in the Layers palette if this helps but it is easier to see what you are doing at 100%. To get rid of what you don't want use the paintbrushes. First, check that the colours (at the bottom of the 'tool palette') are black and white - you can switch between these using 'x' on the keyboard (to add or subtract from the picture) or click the arrow next to the box.
  6. Click on paint brush and choose an appropriate size from the tool bar. Make sure the layer box in the Layer palette is highlighted (click on it). Then paint away with the brush - getting rid of the overlay that you don't want. If you take away something you want press 'x' on the keyboard and then paint it back in.
  7. and using 'hide all'. At number 4 above you can click on 'hide all' instead in which case the overlay is hidden and you paint it back in using a paintbrush and the black and white colours at the bottom of the tool palette.
  8. When you are finished merge the layers together.  You will not be able to work on them after you have merged so make sure you are ready.  Go to the Layers palette, merge layers, save as a jpg.
  9. To get this on screen (on your blog or else where) make another duplicate file (this time put 'screen' in the title).  Go to image file and reduce the size to about 600 ppi as the maximum length or width at 72 resolution.
Don't forget that to use this image (rather than work on it) make a duplicate, go to the Layers window and flatten Layers then save as a jpg. Again, if you are going to present this on screen go to image size and reduce it to 72 dpi.